The holes are located symmetrically in relation to the axis of the sheet or document.
The selection depends on the movement being used, with one of the largest collections being offered for Seiko movements, by sellers such as Dagaz Watches and Yobokies.
When working with other movements, the selection is more limited or sometimes non-existent. Adventurer, a 39mm Explorer-style watch featuring a dial and hands modeled after a military version of a vintage Rolex Submariner. This watch was based on an Orient Chicane, whose movement accepts Seiko-compatible hands, but an oversize Submariner-style dial was simply not available.
Oceanographer, paying homage to the Omega Seamasterand based on a Vostok Amphibia. The stock hands were close enough to the desired style, but none of the many available new and vintage Vostok dials looked even remotely like that of the Omega.
Evolution, another Explorer-style watch, this time based on a 36mm Alpha Explorer, with a dial combining design cues from both the and Rolex Explorers, and hands in vintage Tudor Ranger style.
Appropriate hands were easy to find for the Sea Gull movement, but the dial I had in mind did not exist. The Adventurer and Evolution dials were made using high-quality photo paper, and the techniques used are described in the remainder of this article.
The Oceanographer dial used a different technique water slide decal over luminous filmand will be described in a separate article later. Preparing the Existing Dial All the dials were made using the original dial as a base. The dial was removed from the watch, the existing indices and artwork stripped off, new artwork and indices applied, and the dial reinstalled.
This requires opening the case back, removing the crown, removing the movement and dial as a unit, removing the hands, and finally separating the dial from the movement. Orient dial with indices removed. The Orient and Alpha dials both had applied indices and numerals, and the Orient also had a date window frame.
These were easy to remove by pushing them out from the back using a pin. I saved these parts for possible use in future projects. With the applied bits removed, the next step was a bath in acetone.
This had different effects on the two dials. The dark red transparent base colour was left completely untouched. The Alpha dial on the other hand was stripped clean by the acetone. Both the base coat and all the printed markings came off, almost as a single sheet.
The date window has been filled with steel-filled epoxy.
None of my designs called for a date window, but the Orient dial had one, which needed to be filled in. I applied a piece of tape over the window on the back of the dial, and then filled the window with JB Weld steel-filled epoxy from the front, using just enough to protrude slightly above the front surface.
This would be sanded level later. This also took care of levelling the date window filler. To hold the dial securely for sanding, I prepared a hardwood block, drilled with a pair of holes for the dial feet and a central hole for a 2mm brass tube the same diameter as the dial hole.
During sanding, the tube was pushed down flush with the surface of the dial so the sanding block could pass right over it. The sanding is almost finished. I sanded using wooden blocks faced with sandpaper.
I started with medium grit paper to remove most of the base coat quickly.Shop Fiskars paper punches! Add eye-catching embellishments with a variety of craft punches.
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