You never know who will show up at your door. Will something occur outside of school or in another class that will shut them down to learning when you need them to be ready to learn? How does one possibly prepare for all the obstacles and barriers that come up throughout the year to make sure all students in your classes are working to their potential every day?
Open and close the throttle a few times to check the idle setting is stable and adjust if required. Wind the balance adjustment screw 6 back in clockwise 2 turns or other as above to its approximate original position.
Check the RH throttle body stop screw 7 to ensure there is clearance between screw and stop. Also check the fast idle adjustment screw 12 to ensure there is clearance there also.
If either have no clearance, wind out further as required. Reconnect the throttle cable to the cable wheel 9 and ensure there is plenty of free play in the cable. Refit the fuel pressure regulator, rubber air tube or air box assembly as removed.
You need the air box off to get to the balance screw, which points to the rear. Wind the air bleeds 3, 8 fully in, I usually record how far out they were, again just in case I need to go back to where I started.
You should need the fast idle on to get the engine to idle with the air bleeds 3, 8 screwed fully shut. If not, something is most likely wrong. Set the manifold vacuum balance synchronisation via the balance adjustment screw 6 using mercury sticks, etc at various RPM.
This is often a case of best compromise, and remember that cruise at 4, RPM has more throttle than free rev at 4, RPM. I usually go up to 6, or so RPM free revving to check for variation. Once this is done check again to ensure there is still clearance in both the throttle cable 10 and fast idle adjustment screw If not, adjust as required and recheck.
Next set the idle speed using the air bleeds 3, 8 as required. As a general rule, the air bleeds should be approximately 1 turn out. At this point most will set the air bleeds so the cylinders are balanced at idle.
Adjust the throttle cable to give the free play you desire. You can do this at the throttle body 10 or the twist grip, up to you. Turn the bars fully left and right while doing this just in case the cables move when doing that.
Adjust the fast idle adjustment screw 12 to give the fast idle setting you desire. I prefer to have a fair bit of clearance here so that full fast idle gives no more than 3, RPM, but some people like to just move the lever a little and get the fast idle acting.
Personal preference pretty much.
Just make sure the fast idle adjustment screw 12 has some clearance and therefore no effect at closed throttle, and you need to do the balance first to be sure of that. Leave it screwed out with plenty of clearance or just take it out. The LH throttle body stop screw 5 is the master setting. Next is the setting of the idle mixture.
You might get lucky and be close.
Or not lucky and still have a poorly idling or running bike. For example, if the bike is too lean and idles low, winding out the air bleeds 3, 8 to try to raise the idle speed will only lean it out more, so the idle will most likely not increase. You can sometimes make a bike idle better by winding the air bleeds 3, 8 in and richening the idle mixture if it was too lean to start with, even though the idle is low.This file contains additional information such as Exif metadata which may have been added by the digital camera, scanner, or software program used to create or digitize it.
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